18.10.12

Kopi Luwak: A curiosidade está matando o gato

Talvez você já tenha ouvido falar de um café muito caro e raro, feito com grãos defecados por um animal.

Esse café é o Kopi Luwak, mundialmente conhecido por ser o café mais caro do mundo. Ele é produzido por civetas asiáticas, uma espécie de gato selvagem que vive na Indonésia e Filipinas. 

A civeta costuma selecionar e comer os grãos mais maduros e doces das plantações de café. Os grãos passam pelo sistema digestivo, onde entram em contato com enzimas que diminuem os peptídeos e aumentam os aminoácidos livres (bla bla bla), fazendo com que o grão, ao ser defecado, limpado e levemente torrado tenha um sabor menos amargo. Tudo isso, claro, em teoria.


Pois bem, há algumas semanas meu amigo holandês Bob esteve em Bali e me trouxe alguns presentinhos, e, todo empolgado, começou a mostrar fotos da plantação de café e como o café era produzido e, digamos, defecado pelo animal. Ao olhar as fotos, fiquei um pouco chocado com a crueldade e foi isso que me levou a escrever esse post.


As fotos (abaixo) mostram várias civetas presas em jaulas e forçadas a consumirem grãos de café para terem as fezes colhidas e vendidas a peso de ouro.



E exatamente aí que entra a polêmica: o Kopi Luwak é famoso, caro e raro porque as civetas escolhem somente os melhores e mais doces grãos de plantações de café. Os produtores, tentando lucrar com a curiosidade e fama mundial das fezes do bichano, criam em cativeiro, muitas vezes sob mau tratos. E isso foge da lógica de se tomar um Kopi Luwak.

Além disso, alguns produtores forjam produções para lucrar. A maior e mais importante associação de café do mundo, a SCAA (Specialty Coffee Association of America), denunciou que o consumo de Kopi Luwak é bem maior que a atual produção, estimada em 230 kgs anuais. O seja, você está comprando gato por lebre (desculpa o trocadilho).

Lendo um pouco sobre as civetas, descobri que a 
International Coffee Consulting Group resolveu testar os mesmos grãos das plantações onde a civeta vive e, segundo análise, o café feito pelos grãos defecados tem um sabor inferior, chegando a diferença de 4 pontos na escala da SCAA de um café feito pelo método tradicional. Ou seja, o café não ganha em qualidade ou propriedades. Ao contrário.

Polêmicas a parte, o valor pago pelo Kopi Luwak se refere ao preço da história, de tomar um café exótico defecado por um tipo de gato. E essa curiosidade, literalmente, está matando o gato.

59 Comments:

Blogger Rubens said...

Que crueldade!! :(

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